Sewing machine



Oct. 9, 1934- ASHWORTH 1,975,914

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 9. 1931 et's-Sheet 1 Oct. 9, 1934.

F. ASHWORTH SEWING MACHINE 2 Sheets-Sheet Filed March 9, 1951 Patented Oct. 9, 1934 UNITED STATES "PATENT OFFICE SEWING rmcnma Application March 9, 1931, Serial No. 521,124

5 Claims.

The present invention relates to sewing machines and is herein disclosed as embodied in a machine particularly designed for use in sewing together the side part or vamp, and top piece or tongue of an imitation moccasin or moccasin type shoe.

The upper of a moccasin type shoe comprises a top piece or tongue similar to that of an ordinary moccasin and a side piece or vamp which differs from that of an ordinary moccasin in that instead of itself forming the sole, it is secured to an additional sole part or parts in the same manner as in the manufacture of welt, stitch-down or McKay shoes. The seam uniting the toe piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe has the same location and should have substantially the same general appearance as the corresponding seam of a regular moccasin. On account of the shape of the parts and the character of the seam, it is extremely difficult to utilize existing sewing machines in sewing these parts together and, accordingly heretofore, especially where it is desirable to produce work uniformly satisfactory, it has been customary to form the moccasin seams by hand sewing.

The object of the present invention is to obviate the necessity of a hand sewing operation in forming the moccasin seamof a moccasin type shoe, and to provide a sewing machine by which the vamp and top piece of such a shoe can be readily secured together by a moccasin seam in a reliable and uniform manner without requiring the services of an operator of more than average skill and ability.

With the above object in view, the present invention contemplates the provision in a sewing machine of a work support having two engaging surfaces to support respectively the vamp and top piece of a moccasin type shoe in position to receive the moccasin seam. The meeting edges of the top piece and vamp of a shoe of this type are usually bevelled. In order to support the top piece and vamp with these bevelled edges closely in contact, the work engaging surfaces of the work support are angularly disposed with relation to each other. The surfaces extend in the direction in which the work is fed through the machine and are 'so located with relation to the needle that the path of the needle crosses the apex of the angle formed by the surfaces. In connection with this form of work support, a presser is provided having corresponding angularly dis-' posed surfaces so arranged that when the presser is moved towards the work support, the top piece and vamp are engaged between the surfaces of the presser and work support, and are held in position for the passage of the needle. It is desirable to have the stitches of the moccasin seam pass through the full thickness of thevamp and top piece where they have not been skived off in forming the bevels at the edges and preferably the seam should be located substantially at the shoulder of the bevelled portion so that, while passing through the desired thickness of the stock and being located at the desired distance from the edge, the seam will, nevertheless, hold the surfaces of the bevelled edges tightly together and there will be no tendency for these edges to separate in the, completed shoe. Accordingly the tip of the presser is recessed or otherwise suitably shaped to permit the needle to pass through the desired portions of the top piece and vamp without contacting with the' presser, the path of the needle being across the apex of the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the presser.

In order to guard against possible displacement of the edges of the top piece and vamp during the passage of the needle, a further feature of the invention consists in extending the surfaces of the presser so as to form an apex at the side of the needle path. In order to permit ready manipulation of the top piece and vamp of a narrow toed shoe, this apex is preferably formed at one side only of the needle path.

Another feature of the present invention contemplates arranging the work engaging surfaces of a work support, such as is above referred to, at an acute angle with relation to each other, and preferably at an angle of substantially degrees. In connection with this work support, a presser having corresponding angularly disposed work engaging surfaces will be used to cooperate with the work support in holding the vamp and top piece in position for the passage of the needle. By arranging the work supporting surfaces at an acute angle with relation to each other, the surfaces of both the top piece and the vamp are presented at such an angle to the path of the needle that the needle can readily penetrate both parts without any tendency to be displaced, as would be the case if the work engaging surfaces of the work support were arranged at a right or obtuse angle.

The use of a curved needle further obviates the liability of needle deflection andalso produces a seam, the stitches of which pass through the work substantially at right angles to both surfaces of the work, although these surfaces are angularly disposed with relation to each other.

Other features of the invention contemplate the provision in a machine provided with a work support having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other and a cooperating presser having corresponding angularly disposed surfaces, of a presser supporting horn extending upwardly and rearwardly from a point below the level of the work support, whereby clearance for the work is provided, and the operator is permitted a clear view of the work, and of suitable mechanism for moving the presser towards and from the work support and for locking it in position during the passage of the needle.

In addition to the features of invention above referred to, the present invention also consists in certain devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the working mechanism of a machine embodying the several features of the invention, the supporting column and parts at the rear of the machine being broken away; Fig. 2 is a side view on an enlarged scale of a portion of the work clamping and supporting parts illustrated in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a view in front elevation on a reduced scale of the work clamping parts, illustrating particularly the shape of the work clamping horn; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the shoe constructed with the moccasin type upper; and Fig. 6 is a view in section of the upper parts before attachment to the sole of the shoe, taken along the line 6 of Fig. 5.

In the drawings the invention is illustrated as embodied in a sewing machine which, except as hereafter indicated, is similar to the outsole shoe sewing machine disclosed in applicant's prior U. S. Patent No. 1,169,909, dated February 1, 1916. This machine is a curved hook needle machine having its thread handling devices constructed and arranged to form a lockstitch. The curved hook needle of the machine is indicated at 2, the curved awl at 4, the rotary hook which casts the needle loop over the stationary bobbin case at 6, and the loop spreader which engages one side of the needle loop and places the loop in position to be engaged by the rotary hook at 8. The needle and awl are secured to carriers mounted in a bracket 10 forming a part of the machine frame. The needle and awl carriers are concentric with each other and are arranged so that the needle enters the work from above, and the awl from below. Oscillating movements are imparted to the needle and awl through suitable connections from the driving shafts 12 and 14. The needle operates in a fixed vertical plane. The awl is arranged to move laterally, while in the work, in order to feed the work between successive actuations of the needle, one of the levers through which the awl carrier is actuated to move the awl laterally being indicated at 16.

The parts so far described and the other stitchforming and work feeding devices with their actuating mechanisms are the same as in the machine of the patent above referred to.

In embodying the present invention in the illustrated machine a work support and a cooperating presser, together with mechanism for supporting and actuating the presser, have been provided to enable the machine to be utilized in sewing together the top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe such as is illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6. In these figures, the top piece of the shoe upper is indicated at 18, and the vamp at 20. In the manufacture of the shoe, these parts are sewed together before the vamp is attached to the sole 22. To prepare the top piece and vamp for the sewing operation, the inner surfaces of the edges which are to be sewed together are bevelled, as indicated in Fig. 6, and during the sewing operation, the parts are held in such a position with relation to each other and to the needle of the sewing machine that the seam passes through the parts at the shoulder formed by the bevelled portion. The stitches of the seam appear upon the outer surfaces of both parts at a short distance inwardly from the edge, and since the seam is a lockstitch seam, a single thread appears upon each surface, and the seam cannot be distinguished from a hand sewed seam.

The work support of the machine is indicated at 24, and consists of a suitably shaped block secured by means of screws 26 to an intermediate block 28 which is secured by screw 30, to the underside of the bracket 10 of the machine frame. To support the top piece 18 and vamp 20 in the proper position with relation to each other, and to the needle and awl, the work support is provided with work supporting surfaces 32 and 34 which extend in the direction in which the work is fed, and which are arranged at an angle of substantially 60 degrees with relation to each other. The surfaces are so positioned with relation to the path of the needle that the needle passes across the apex of the angle formed by these surfaces and at such a distance from the apex that the seam can be placed substantially at the shoulders formed by the bevels on the top piece and vamp. To enable the needle and awl to penetrate the work and the awl to feed the work, the work support is slotted, as indicated at 36.

The presser which cooperates with the work support is indicated at 38. This presser is substantially wedge-shaped, its work engaging surfaces being disposed with relation to each other at an angle corresponding to that of the work engaging surfaces of the work support. The presser is thus adapted to force both the vamp and the top piece firmly against the work support with their bevelled surfaces in contact with each other and with their edges positioned accurately in the desired relation to the path of the needle. To enable the needle and awl to pass through the top piece and vamp, at the shoulder formed by their bevelled portions or slightly inside of this shoulder, the tip and of the presser is cut away or recessed where it would otherwise project into the path of the needle and awl. At one side of the needle path, however, the tip of the presser extends to the apex of the angle formed by the angularly disposed surfaces of the presser. Pressure is thus exerted upon the top piece and vamp up to and beyond the needle, and since the tip of the presser projects at one side of the needle only, it does not interfere with the manipulation of the shoe parts even while'sewing around the toe portion of a narrow toed shoe.

Suitable means are provided for supporting and actuating the presser 38 so that it is forced towards the work support and held in clamping position during the passage of the needle and awl, and is moved or allowed to move away from the work support during -the lateral movement of the awl in feeding the work. In the machine illustrated in the drawings, the means for supporting and actuating the presser 38 include not only means for forcing the presser towards the work support and holding it in position during the passage of the needle and awl, but also means for positively locking the presser against backward movement when in such position. As illustrated, the presser is mounted upon the .upper end and forms the tip of a horn 40 which is pivotally mounted upon a pivot shaft 42 fixed in a bracket 44 at some distance below the work support. This horn is in the form of an arm which curves downwardly and forwardly from the pivot shaft 42 and then upwardly and rearwardly, thereby affording clearance below the presser for the manipulation of the work, and permitting the operator a clear and unobstructed view of the work at the point where the seam is being formed. The lower end of the horn 40 is forked, as best shown in Fig. 4, so as to embrace the portion of the bracket 44 in which the pivot shaft 42 is secured, and from this forked portion an arm 46 extends upwardly to the upper end of which is pivotally connected a link 48, which link forms a part of a series of connections through which the horn 40 and presser 38 mounted thereon are actuated and controlled from the driving shaft 14 of the machine. This series of connections, as illustrated, is constructed and arranged to operate in substantially the same manner as the series of connections which are utilized in the machine of the patent above-referred to for actuating and controlling the presser-foot. Briefly described, these connections are as follows. The link 48 is pivotally connected at its rear end to a lever 50 which is pivotally mounted at its cen-, tral point upon the forward end of a rod 52. This rod is provided with a steep pitch screw, and is mounted to slide through a locking device '54 which is actuated and controlled from a cam on the shaft 14 through a cam actuated lever 56 and connecting link 58. At its lower end, the lever 50 has a pivotal connection with a rearwardly extending link 60 which is acted upon by a spring 62, the tendency of which is to pull the lower end of the lever 50 backwardly and, through the link 48, swing the horn 40 with its presser 38 yieldingly towards the work support. At its upper end the lever 50 is connected by a link 64 to a lever 66 which is actuated by a cam on the shaft 14, the action of which cam is to swing the lever 50 about its pivotal connection with the rod 52 and thus, when the rod is locked against forward movement, to move the horn and presser towards the work support and, in cooperation with the locking device 54, lock the presser positively against backward movement away from the work support. To permit the presser to be forced back manually away from the work support, the link 48 is pivotally connected midway its ends to the lower end of an arm 68 pivotally mounted upon the frame of the machine and arranged to be engaged by a projection from the lower end of a hand lever 70 pivotally mounted on the frame of the machine, and extending into a position to be conveniently moved by the operator. This lever is connected by a link '12 with the locking device 54 the construction and arrangement being the same as that utilized in the machine of the patent above referred to for manually lifting the presser-foot. A backward movement of the upper end of the hand lever 70 results in the unlocking of the rod 52, and the imparting of a forward movement to the lower end of the arm 68, hich forward movement through the link 48 moves the horn 40 and presser 38 away from the work support.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a construction embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edged top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having, in combination, a work support having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed forming an apex to support the beveled edges of the top piece and vamp closely in contact and in alinement, stitch-forming devices comprising a needle movable across the apex of the angle formed by said surfaces, and a presser having corresponding angularly disposed work engaging surfaces fixed with relation to each other and cooperating with the surfaces of the work support to hold the vamp and top piece in position close to the path of the needle, said presser being shaped to permit the needle to pass across the apex of the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the presser.

2. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edged top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having, in combination, a work support having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed forming an apex to support the beveled edges of the top piece and vamp closely in contact and in alinement, stitch-forming devices comprising a needle movable across the apex of the angle formed by said surfaces, and a presser having corresponding angularly disposed work engaging surfaces cooperating with the surfaces of the work support to hold the vamp and top piece in position for the passage of the needle, and meeting to form an apex at one side of the needle path in the line of feed while permitting the needle to pass across the apex of the angle formed by said surfaces.

3. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edged top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having, in combination, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other at an acute angle and extending in the direction of feed forming an apex to support the beveled edges of the top piece and vamp closely in contact and in alinement, stitchforming devices comprising a curved needle movable across the apex of the angle formed .by said surfaces and a presser having corresponding angularly disposed work engaging surfaces fixed with relation to each other and cooperating with the surface of the work support to hold the vamp and top piece in position close to the path of the needle.

4. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edged top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having, in combination, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other at an angle of substantially 60 degrees forming an apex to support the beveled edges of the top piece and vamp closely in contact and in alinement, stitch-forming devices comprising a curved needle movable across the apex of the angle formed by said surfaces, and a presser having corresponding angularly disposed work engaging surfaces fixed with relation to each other and cooperating withthe surfaces of the work support to hold the vamp and top piece in position close to the path of the'needle.

5. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edged top piece and vamp 0 the moccasin yp shoe having, in combination, a work support havces angularly disposed h other and extending in the rming an apex to support the he top piece and ing work engaging surfa with relation to eac direction of feed to beveled edges of t in contact and in e formed by said suri'aces, a. rrespondlng angularly disposed surfaces cooperating with the apex of the angl presser having co work engaging dle, and means for moving the presser away from the work support to permit the work to be-fed.

FRED ASHWORTH. 

